Tuesday, August 3, 2010

An easy day

We were pretty tired after our long hike so we decided on an easy day today. We grabbed our gear and hopped the train the Wengen and took the cable car up to Mannlichen. We decided to try another way to Grindewald today, the little two seater cable car was an awesome ride. It took about half an hour and we spotted many cows, goats, and even a number of Swiss marmots running around on the slopes. We also had a great view of the Eiger, and the Rotstock, which we had climbed a few days before.

Jo's new friend in Wengen

After arriving in Gridewald we hiked for an hour or so along one of the many rivers in the area. It was nice and relaxing after our previous days adventure. Eventually we arrived at the Gletscherschlucht, which means Glacier Gorge. It lies beneath the Grindewald Glacier, and the lake that it's run off forms. Years of glacier run off have carved an amazing gorge. For $7 admission you can walk for well over a km into the gorge. In places you are on platforms which are bolted to the sides of the gorge, in other places you walk through man made tunnels. Along the way you can see pink and green marble in the rock walls. There is a quarry nearby. There is also some great information about a huge tunnel which was made several years ago leading up inside the mountain to the glacial lake...it's a sort of pressure relief valve to prevent the lake from overflowing into the valley below, an affect of global warming.

Here are a few shots from within the gorge





After the gorge we hiked back to Grindewald and picked up some picnic supplies at the Co-op (local store). We got some grapes, local cheese, sausage, wine, gummy bears and paprika chips (like our BBQ). We decided to take the cable car back up to the ridge and have a picnic. Part way up we could see that the weather was turning so we had part of our picnic in the cable car. When we reached the top the weather had totally come in and it was pouring rain like I've never seen before. We only had about 300 meters to go from one cable car station to the other in order to get back down off the mountain and into our valley, but we got soaked!

At least it had stopped raining by the time we made it down to Wengen and then back to Lauterbrunnen. We made our way back to the hotel for a hot cup of tea, and then ended up staying in and having the rest of the picnic for supper. Another great day, even with the short downpour.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Swiss National Day - the long hike

August 1st is Swiss National Day and we weren't really sure what to do. The weather forecast wasn't great, so we decided to go for a train ride and a short hike, but brought our gear with us in case we decided to go further. A short train ride and we were in Wilderswil. There we transferred to a very old cog train (1893) that took us up to Schynige Platte. It was amazingly steep on the way up, but the views were incredible. It took almost an hour to get up to the top where there is an amazing alpine flower garden.



From here we had several options, go for a short hike and take the train back down again, or commit to a much longer hike. We looked at the skies, check the barometric pressure, and decided to go for it. To say it was spectacular would be the understatement of the century. We hiked along a knife edged ridge overlooking the Thunersee and Brienzersee on one side, and the Alps on the other. It was probably the most perfect alpine trail you could ever imagine.

Climbing to the ridge



After some time we left the ride and began to hike through some amazing rock formations. There was a lot of up and down, but the scenery made you forget how hard you were working.




About three hours in we rounded the edge of a peak and spotted a mountain hut in the distance. We climbed up towards it knowing we would be able to get a cold drink, and sit for a few minutes.


We enjoyed a nice cold Coke...good for the blood sugar, and then carried on. We still had a long ways to go. We climbed even higher, stopping for a quick snowball fight along the way


We continued to climb another high mountain ridge where we eventually passed the Faulhorn, the highest mountain hotel in all of Europe.


From here it was a few hours of steep descent until we reached the Bachalpsee, an amazingly beautiful alpine lake with the Swiss Alps as the backdrop.



From this beautiful spot we descended to First. Total elapsed time was 5 and a half hours from when we started, and we were hiking for 5 of them. Boy were we glad to get onto the little two seat cable car for the 30 minute ride back down to Grindewald. A short train ride and we were back at our hotel where we showered and napped for a bit.

After another wonderful Swiss meal we headed back to the hotel and discovered that the parade was about to start. I've never known a parade to start at 9:00 at night, but what the heck. We sat on our balcony and watched the parade go right by. As soon as they reached the end of their route on the other side of the river, the skies opened up. A huge thunder and lightning storm was passing over the valley. I have never heard thunder like that before, each crash echoed up and down the valley and you could feel every one....it was amazing!

At 10:00 the fireworks started. It was an amazing show, puts most of the ones I have seen to shame, and this town only has about 900 residents. They take Swiss National Day very seriously. The best part was the flashes of lightning which lit up the sky behind the fireworks......a perfect end to am amazing (and very tiring) day!

Time to catch up

It's been an amazing few days, it's raining out now so we're relaxing and it's a good time to catch up. Saturday we geared up after breakfast and headed up to Wengen on the train and then took the cable lift up to Mannlichen. From the cable car station it was a short hike up to an amazing view point. We could see forever in every direction. One way was the Alps, the other beautiful lakes and in the distance the Black Forest of Germany.

Looking towards the Alps


From the lookout we hiked a great trail towards Kleine Scheidegg, it takes you directly towards the Eiger. Along the way we spotted/heard many cows grazing in the alpine meadows, their bells ringing.

Trail towards the Eiger

After arriving in Kleine Scheidegg we hopped on the train up to Eigergletscher station. This is the last stop for the train before it enters the mountain and makes it's way up to the Jungfraujoch. We hiked the first part of the Eiger Trail, which passes directly below the north face of the Eiger. At a high point we watched for rock cairns to show us where to leave the trail so we could climb the Rotstock. We found the spot and made our way up to the base of the face where we donned our helmets and harnesses in preparation for the climb. The trip up the Rotstock is a Via Ferrata. Here is a borrowed picture which shows the location of the Rotstock in relation to the Eiger.



On a Via Ferrata you are clipped in to protection the whole time. Although it can be very steep and exposed, you are always safe. It was quite challenging, we started in a section of vertical ladders, climbed up a chute past flowing waterfalls, and even had to traverse some sections which were covered in snow. Reaching the summit was a great experience, and the view was breathtaking.

About to go past a waterfall

Going up...final destination in the background


Jo moving her pro (protection)


Going up


Final push to the summit

Summit of the Rotstock

After summiting the Rotstock we descended the West Flank, which is the normal route that people who have climbed the north face of the Eiger use to descend. A short hike back down the Kleine Scheidegg and then we took the train all the way back down to Lauterbrunnen for a well earned supper.....grilled chicken with fresh herb butter melted on top, rosti, big salad, and some very tasty Swiss beer.....ah, life is good!

Saturday, July 31, 2010

What a day

Too tired to write a long story today, but here are some highlights:

- watching base jumpers from our balcony
- a perfect day in the mountains
- climbed the Rotstock Via Ferrata....this is right beside the North Face of the Eiger...it was AMAZING!
- got to pet some friendly goats
- was serenaded by cow bells
- laid on the grass and listened to Alpenhorns while overlooking the lush green valleys and the snow covered mountains

Ho hum......LOL
North Face of the Eiger on the left
The Rotstock is above the chimney
of the hotel on the right
Jo walking towards the Eiger

Top of the Rotstock

Friday, July 30, 2010

Another up and down day

We hopped on the train first thing this morning and headed down the valley to Interlaken to explore. There were a few showers so it was a good time to wander and do some shopping. Jo bought a ski jacket and some pants...I think she forgot that it's July. OK, well they were a really good deal. After lunch we hopped back on the train and headed back up into our valley. This place truly is magical....if you have just one thing on your bucket list, make sure it's a visit to the Lauterbrunnen Valley. It really is an incredible place where time stands still and the power of nature is totally restoring.

We woke from a short nap to see that the clouds had vanished and the sun was out so we geared up and decided to head up again....up the hills. We took the trail to Wengen, a town which perches on top of the plateau which forms the east side of the valley. The sign said it would take 1 hour and 30 mins, but we reached the top in exactly 1 hour. We rewarded ourselves with a nice cold beer at the top. I sure wish you could walk into a store in Canada, buy a cold beer, and enjoy it while sitting on a bench with a view....cause you can here!

We explored Wengen a bit - there are a lot of very posche hotels up there. I suspect it's a bit of an out of the way escape for some of the worlds jet setters and well to do people. Then we decided to take the train back down to the valley floor - our 6 day passes are turning out to be a great investment.

Then it was out for another fabulous meal, and an amazing sunset on the snow covered mountains. Jo made friends with two Swiss cats today. They are just as sucky as Canadian cats are. And we discovered that there are some new born chicks (sparrows I think) in a nest which is hiding in one of the trees on our balcony. Another great day in paradise. Tomorrow we are heading even higher and will be doing some climbing on part of the Eiger.
Sunset in the mountains

Here kitty kitty
We started on the valley floor


Standing guard over the chicks


Thursday, July 29, 2010

An easy day

OK, so maybe we overdid it just a bit yesterday, but the weather forecast wasn't great for today, so we had a chance to relax and recover a bit. After breakfast we hiked down the valley about 45 minutes to Trummelbachfalle. All of the glacier run-off and melt from the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau funnel down into this narrow gorge. Years ago it was a waterfall, but now it has carved it's way inside of the mountain. The water has carved an amazing series of passageways through the rock. A funicular takes you part way up inside the mountain and then you climb a series of stairs to the top. From the top you can see a sliver of daylight overhead, but you can't even hear yourself think as millions of gallons of water thunder past you. You slowly make your way down a series of steps and tunnels carved into the mountain, with viewing ports and platforms placed every so often. I took a number of pictures and some video, but I'm sure they won't do it justice. It's something you have to see in person!

After hiking back into town we walked down to the train station and picked up some regional passes. Good for unlimited travel on the local train, bus and cablecar systems for 6 days. As it was raining we decided to ride the rails. We headed up the next valley to explore Grindewald. It's a bigger town than Lauterbrunnen, but it's much more touristy and doesn't have the same feel that it does here. We grabbed a bite to eat, and then stopped at the Bakerei for some treats. From there we decided to head up, up to the Eiger that is. We rode the train from Gridewald up to Kleine Scheidegg which sits at the base of the North Face of the Eiger. Anyone who has ever seen the old Clint Eastwood movie The Eiger Sanction, will be familiar with this place.

We got out and had a quick look around. The weather wasn't great and we couldn't see the entire North Face....but it did clear long enough for us to make out the Rotstock, which we will be climbing in the coming days. From there we took the train back down the mountain to Wengen and then back to Lauterbrunnen. The train ride is amazing, and the views are spectacular.

At dinner we ended up sitting beside a couple who are both school teachers in England. We were sharing stories about what we'd done and what there was to do in the area. It turns out that he had seen the Eiger Sanction years ago and wanted to come and see the Eiger for that very reason....just as I had.

Our legs are feeling rested up and the forecast looks to be improving for tomorrow......hmm, which hike/climb to do? So many choices, and so little time!

Near the bottom of Trunnelbachfalle where the
water emerges to daylight once again

Flower growing from the rock


Looking down into the falls with another
viewing gallery in the distance

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

The Lauterbrunnen Valley must be the closest place to heaven on earth that there is. Apparently it was J.R.R. Tolkien's inspiration for the Valley of Rivendell in Lord of the Rings....LINKY and I can see why. Our room, complete with 15 x 25 foot balcony, overlooks the length of the valley, with Staubbach Falls in perfect view. I read somewhere that it is the 12th highest waterfall in the world.

Today was our first day in the Swiss mountains and it was a big one. After filling up on breakfast at the hotel we geared up and hit the trail. From the town of Lauterbrunnen (bottom of the valley) we hiked up for two hours, gaining close to 1,000 meters in elevation. Once we reached the top of the ridge we walked a nice easy path to the town of Murren. It is perched high above the valley, a quaint little town with no access by car. If you want to go there your only options are foot or gondola then train, well unless you have a helicopter.

After exploring Murren we began a steep descent into Gimmewald - a very sleepy village with a guest house where you can sleep in the barn with the goats. From there an even steeper descent all the way back to the valley floor, and then an hours hike along the river and back to our hotel. We passed over and under at least 20 of the 72 waterfalls that line the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Many of them are spectacular, and water it deliscious!

We were hiking for a total of 6.5 hours today. 2 hours up, about 2 hours of steep descent, 2 hours of flat, and about 30 minutes of sitting along the way. And talk about hospitality....as we walked in the front door of our hotel, we were handed two cold bottles of local beer, before we even walked past the check in desk. I could get used to this lifestyle!

After enjoying our beer and a short nap we headed out and had a spectacular dinner in a very suprizing place...the small restaurant in the local campground. We will be going back for sure. An amazing day, but we might be a bit stiff in the morning. However, many more mountain adventures await.

Will post some pics soon, they take forever to upload so eventually we will also post an album on Facebook.

P.S. As I post this, they just lit up Staubbach Falls, they do it with huge floodlights for a few hours every night.
View from hotel
One of many falls on the hike today
Looking down into the valley
Typical Swiss Mountain chalet - no chicken here!
Your guess is as good as mine!
The reward after 6.5 hours of hiking!

Staubbach Falls by day



Tuesday, July 27, 2010

If this is Tuesday, it must be Switzerland

Was sad to leave France today, but we know what lies ahead. After breakfast and some more shopping (at the best store on the planet), we did an amazing drive from Chamonix, up over a number of Cols and down into Martingny, Switzerland. From there some more amazing back roads to Interlaken, and then up into the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Tomorrow the real mountain adventures begin. More to follow...

Monday, July 26, 2010

Chamonix, France

Today we went for a morning walk around the town and shopped at the best outdoors store on the planet. It puts MEC to shame! Then we picked up some picnic supplies.....baguette, cheese, sausage, fruit and wine. After loading up we headed for a gondolla ride up to the Aguille du Midi. Amazing ascent with a spectacular view of Mont Blanc. You can actually take a gondola down the other side to Courmayer, Italy, but we decided to stay in France today. We ate out lunch at the summit before heading back down in the gondola.

Once back down, we found a trail that we had spotted from the gondolla and decided to stretch our legs a bit in preparation for the mountains of Switzerland. Part way through out hike we discovered and old ski jump...possibly a remnant from the winter Olympics which took place in Chamonix a number of years ago.

Then it was back to the hotel to relax for a bit before wondering out for an authentic French dinner. Salad, escargot, fondue, chocolate mousse, and some local wine....a great way to end the day.

Here are a few pics from our journey so far:


Hotel in Chamonix

View of Mont Blanc from balcony

Typical scenery


I think they went that way!


Aguille du Midi - we took a gondola up there

Aguille du Midi top left - Mont Blanc on right

Relatives?